The process from larva to pupae takes 1 to 2 weeks. Any superworms that are straight looking, hard or black are probably dead. This is the start of the morphing process. As long as they are very large larva you should have very few to no deaths.Īfter several days the worms will become dormant and begin curling to a letter “c” or “e”.
Adding food or water to the film container prolongs the time it takes them to pupate and makes a bigger workload for you. Leave the superworm in the empty film container with no food or water. If you can’t get them you can always use plastic bead boxes for crafts, baby food jars etc. Due to the digital era they are becoming harder to find but I’ve always had good luck at the Wal-Mart and Costco photo centers. I’ve found film containers work best as they require very little space. I keep all stages of superworms at a temperature between 70 and 80 degrees Fahrenheit.Ĭhoose the largest superworms possible and place a single worm into an empty 35mm film container. Pupation is an essential process and the only way to obtain beetles for breeding. Superworms grow slowly and it can take 5 months or longer (depending on the temperature you keep them at) to become large enough to start the “morphing” process. If you keep them together you will never obtain beetles to start another generation. They will need to be separated individually so they can pupate. Breeding superworms is very similar to that of mealworms but with one difference.
The beetles are the only ones that reproduce. Superworms have 4 stages of life: egg, larva, pupae and beetle. It’s a fairly simple process and with some time and patience you can raise your own feeders. For the past several years I’ve been breeding superworms for all my geckos. Breeding your own feeders is one of the best ways. In today’s economy we are all searching for ways to save money.
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